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Carbonara in a can? Chefs get shirty but Heinz is unrepentant

The US manufacturer is indeed selling the spaghetti dish in a tin – like cat food, as one Italian maître put it

As the company behind spaghetti hoops, Alphabetti and Minions pasta shapes, Heinz is not afraid to take liberties with Italian cuisine. But after it had the audacity to put carbonara in a can, some fear the US manufacturer has gone too far.

The seriousness of the situation became apparent on Thursday morning when the company’s first pasta launch in a decade was discussed on BBC Radio 4’s agenda-setting Today news programme. The presenter Jonny Dymond asked whether it amounted to the “end of culinary civilisation” or the kind of “leap forward that brought us the joy of Pot Noodles and microwave meals”.

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